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23.07 day 29 I had been waiting for this day, know

23.07 day 29 I had been waiting for this day, knowing what was to come. I also stopped in Pejanda because this was the dip before the tip. I was at just under 800m and the tip I was heading for, 7km away, was at 1500m. It started nicely, a concrete country lane, not quite so steep I couldn’t just about ride up…it did not last long. For the next 6km I fought for every meter. The gradient went up a few notches, the road turned to loose gravel, struggling to get grip underfoot, the front wheel also slipping out sideways, half carrying the bike, one push, stop, breathe, another push, stop, breathe and so it went. Almost 5 hours later, I hit the first summit. Rest, then along the crest and to a refugio (with running water) where I cooked lunch and washed out my sweat drenched clothes. Then the fog came, visibility dropped to mere meters. From the mist a man appeared who took me on a walk to his refugio and regaled me with stories of bears and wolves up in the Misty mountains. I noted my landmarks and made my way back to my bike where I left it next to the trail, at one point fearing I took a wrong turn. One more hill to go and it was another couple of hours of pushing until I made it, the cloud clearing briefly to reveal herds of cows and horses chewing the cud. Then down and the mist wrapped me in its embrace and soon I was dripping as if in the rain. Slowly, slowly down, the trail rough as it was coming up. Finally tar and freewheeling, yeeeehaaa, forests, mist, winding tar then out into open air, suddenly warm…down to Reinosa and the Rio Ebro upon whose banks I camped.

#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

22.07 day 28 after a couple days rest it was time

22.07 day 28 after a couple days rest it was time to hit some hills and no time was wasted as immediately out of the pueblo, it was nothing but up, up and up. Slowly but surely I made my way up to my highest altitude this tour at 1780m, where I had an up close and personal view of the Picos, stunning. The descent was intense down a steep gravel track with lots of loose gravel and rocks and I crunched my way into Cantabria, popping out onto the tar at 500m, a descent of 1200m! The day wasn’t done and after lunch I steeled my mind for another climb, hitting the next pass at 1300m and a view looking west to the jagged peaks from whence I came. Wow. I started on the descent and came to Pejanda, a bar and a house and asked the bar owner if I could sleep on the patch of grass opposite the bar, he obliged.

#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

19.07 Day 24 the air that flowed into the hut when

19.07 Day 24 the air that flowed into the hut when I opened the door was cold so I closed it and went back to bed to wait for the sun to shine through the eastern window. A little while later a square of golden sunshine struck the inside wall and it was time. Once packed I headed down the knoll and onto the cow track which disappeared into the forest still in dark, cold shadow. Immediately the track loomed up, a steep, hard push followed and I exited into a clearing in the full morning sun, suddenly hot. The hilltop was bald and there in front of me, bang! was the peaks of the Picos, my first sighting of them. I sat down to rest and enjoyed the view for a bit, the wild horses chomping and chewing the grass around me. I then smoked my brakes going down the hill, happy I didn’t have to come up this side, hit the tarmac and edged closer and closer to the Picos. I stopped in Posada de Valdeon, found an albergue and checked in. From the balcony it seemed as if I could reach out and touch the Picos they were that close! It was a mesmerising sight.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

18.07 Day 23 feeling well rested and mentally read

18.07 Day 23 feeling well rested and mentally ready I was on the road before sunup, the river valley still in shadow and still cold as I made my way through misty pueblos and up to the Rioseco reservoir where I had a coffee and pincho. Then back in the saddle, up, up, up, first to Tarna pueblo, then to Tarna pass at 1490m, leaving Asturias and back into Castille y Leon. I freewheeled down the other side, and stopped for a swim. I then left the road and followed a hiking trail north…and came across a refugio. Expecting it to be locked, I was nicely surprised when the door opened. I swept the hut out, got some water from the fuente down the hill, which meant I could shower, which I did, frei körper style, in the setting sun, nothing but me out there…cooked dinner in the hut, then I was gone to la la land…
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

17.07 Day 22 after a tough early morning climb ove

17.07 Day 22 after a tough early morning climb over a forested hill with an average of 20% gradient I freewheeled down through green tunnels to the Nalón valley, joining the Nalón river and following it south and east. The valley is quite built up and industrialised with a big hydro-electric installation on the river. There were suddenly more towns too which made a nice change as this meant there was a walking and cycling along the river. There is also a history of mining in the valley and there are hundreds of bridges where you can cross from one side to the other. Loads of places to swim too and an apple orchard with fresh cut green grass at the end of the day was my spot for the night.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

16.07 Day 22 after a good meal and great nights re

16.07 Day 22 after a good meal and great nights rest, it was up to San Lorenzo pass and down to Samartín and onto the ridiculous via verde Senda del Oso (Path of the bear)…it follows the Rio Teverga then Rio Trubia, through fantastic gorges, the cliffs rising up and over the via verde itself. I can’t remember how many tunnels it has but plenty, epic ride. I found a beautiful spot on the river to make lunch under an oak whose leaves were bright green in the sun, hanging over the ice cold crystal clear water.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

15.07 Day 21 I spent the night at 1200m which mean

15.07 Day 21 I spent the night at 1200m which meant I had a short climb up to Puerto de Magdalena at 1434m, I made it hard for myself by taking the MTB route. I never learn. However, I took a holiday on the tarmac dropping down to about 1000m, before heading up to the next pass, Puerto de Semiedo at 1486m. Cold brewski plucked from the mountain stream was sunk then flew down down down to Puerto de Semiedo (750m), where I treated myself to some Asurian cuisine, hearty! I was gonna need it.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

14.07 Day 20 On my own Camino now, no more yellow

14.07 Day 20 On my own Camino now, no more yellow arrows pointing towards Santiago, I continued NE out of Astorga in a lush, green landscape. Changes were afoot. Wheat still present but a lot more corn now and something I’d never seen before, hops, still in flower. I followed the Canal de Carrizo north and joined the Rio Omaña, with cold crystal clear water. Everything so green, trees, forests, I was bug eyed. In the afternoon I climbed up out of the river valley and popped the tent amid the midges.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

13.07 Day 19 From Benavente I had 80km to do to re

13.07 Day 19 From Benavente I had 80km to do to reach Astorga, where the Ruta de Plata meets the Camino Frances and where I would be leaving the yellow arrows behind. The weather remained cool but the wind had died away. Slowly but surely the landscape started changing once more, becoming greener as I made my way along and over rivers and a lot more trees and shade along the golden fields of wheat. I passed through small farming pueblos, very quiet places where I sometimes would not see anyone on my way through. I reached Astorga and went on to Murias to sleep in an albergue as I wasn’t sure when next I’d find one. From here, I was on my own Camino.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino #viadelaplata

12.07 Day 18 after a breakfast with Paco and Angel

12.07 Day 18 after a breakfast with Paco and Angela I eased myself back into the saddle and the gravel. It was a bit cool but the wind had died down at least. I was feeling a bit tender in the legs after the tough day before so the pace was gentle and I stopped regularly. I arrived in Benavente on the via verde del Oeste, another rail to trail conversion running along the Rio Esla and some beautiful antique rail bridges. I did not leave Benavente, the green grass was too tempting to not pitch my tent on and give my legs a break.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino #viadelaplata

11.07 Day 17 so much happened…left Salamanca ear

11.07 Day 17 so much happened…left Salamanca early, knocked out the 75km to Zamora quite easily, through cereal fields, quite flat and it was cool. Stopped and ate in Zamora and suddenly, as I left, a fierce, furnace like wind from the NW started blowing…suddenly the riding was a lot harder, the sand and gravel sucking at the tyres and forcing every ounce of energy into forward momentum. I wanted to camp at the castle ruin of Castrotorafe but the wind scuppered those plans, there was no shelter. But in Fontanillas De Castro, as I was about to camp on the outskirts of town, Angela and Paco from the Alberge said “no! You’re staying with us!” So the bike went into the house, so did I, I had a hot shower, Angela prepared a dinner and I slept in a bed for the night. Yet another example of the kindness of people on the Camino.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino #viadelaplata

10.07 Day 16 Salamanca. I didn’t plan to visit S

10.07 Day 16 Salamanca. I didn’t plan to visit Salamanca. Originally I planned to head into Portugal but I changed my mind as I was enjoying the Ruta de Plata, and I’m happy I did. I think I met the friendliest hospitalario ever in Ramon at the Albergue in Salamanca. He kindly took me on a tour around this beautiful city and the famous Plaza Mayor for tapas at Bar Cervantes (named after the author of Don Quijote). The rest was resting and eating and spending time with other pilgrims.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino #viadelaplata

09.07 Day 15 another 50km to go to Salamanca so an

09.07 Day 15 another 50km to go to Salamanca so another easy day I thought, well, the Camino threw in a nice surprise about 15km in, a hill climb, steep, rocky, slippery and impossible to ride up, so a bit of pushing needed to be done. The summit was eventually reached offering a great view to the north. The descent was just as slow being as steep and slippery and I was then into wild cattle ranching and wheat country, the temperature suddenly in the upper 30s again, baking! Distance was also measured by the ancient Roman mile markers, stone pillars, still standing on the trail. I stopped at a pueblo and had lunch at a restaurant, where the landlady prepared everything on the spot. Then, the last few kilometres into Salamanca. I’ve heard from many people how beautiful it is, my expectations were blown away…
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino #viadelaplata

08.07 Day 14 I rose up out of the tent at 0700 and

08.07 Day 14 I rose up out of the tent at 0700 and at 850m it was a bit fresh, back to bed I decided and only got up when the sun hit the tent at about 10. I then made my way slowly along the via verde until it’s end just after Bejar. I was out on the other side of the sierras now slowly losing altitude and once more the landscape and architecture changed. Pastures of grass and trees were lined with walls made of mossy black stone. The grass is green and tall and often you can see the heads and necks of the European stork watching you warily, before taking flight if you get too close.
In the pueblo of Fuenterroble de Salvatierra I cycled past albergue parroquial Santa Maria and decided to stay the night. Turned out to be a gem.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino #viadelaplata

07.07 Day 13 it was misty and cool as I crossed th

07.07 Day 13 it was misty and cool as I crossed the Roman bridge and back into some beautiful country. Once more the Camino delivered, gorgeous oak grassland dotted by these huge black boulders. By lunchtime I was on the foot of the sierras and everything changed as I joined the vía verde. Gone were the browns and in with the greens, trees and the flowers and the butterflies and the birdsong, an abundance of shade on this converted rail road. It had been ages since I’d been in green forests and I was revelling in it. I explored some mountain pueblos and eventually settled down for the night at a picnic spot on the via verde.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino #viadelaplata

06.07 Day 12 Camped overnight in Cáceres then exp

06.07 Day 12 Camped overnight in Cáceres then explored the old city before heading north once more. Clouds provided a stark contrast to the previous day's riding, plus it was a bit cooler. So far it seems this is the best part of the Ruta de Plata, north of Mérida. It was still vast cattle plains and wide open landscapes to kick things off, huge black boulders dotting the landscape. In the afternoon I crossed the Tagus river and dropped down into a lush green valley, green fields, river valleys flanked by towering green trees and by evening I was up in the castle village of Galisteo where I camped next to an ancient Roman bridge, looking up at the castle on the hill.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #outsideisfree #optoutside #thegreatoutdoors #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet #bicigrino

05.07 Day 11 one of the best stages yet, straight

05.07 Day 11 one of the best stages yet, straight out of Merida past the reservoir and into rolling hills of grasslands, wild flowers and oak trees. I was looking for the Saddle billed stork but unfortunately I didn’t spot them but plenty of European storks and other bird life.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #welivetoexplore #outsideisfree #optoutside #thegreatoutdoors #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

05.07 Day 11 all rested up after a couple days off

05.07 Day 11 all rested up after a couple days off the bike and it’s goodbye to the beautiful little pueblo of Mérida. It was all possible thanks to an amazing Warmshowers host, thank you to @antesquetodotermine for having me and making me feel so welcome!
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #welivetoexplore #outsideisfree #optoutside #thegreatoutdoors #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

02.07 Day 8, The section between Zafra and Merida

02.07 Day 8, The section between Zafra and Merida wasn’t great. While being all gravel road, the surrounding landscape was bleak. Nothing but vineyards, ploughed earth and a heavy smell of chemicals. This was nothingness. No birds, no life, bleak.
I wanted to reach Mérida before the afternoon heat set in but got delayed by a friendly guy in Villafranca who insisted on showing me all the sights, how could I say no. So, by around 2pm I was humping through the scorched earth about 20km south of Mérida when I finally found a scrap of shade under an old olive tree.
While waiting out the heat Juan, my Warmshowers host, called and told me he’s coming to get me. An hour later I was in the ancient Roman city of Mérida.
Time for a rest day.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #welivetoexplore #outsideisfree #optoutside #thegreatoutdoors #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

01.07 Day 7, from the foot of the Castillo the Cam

01.07 Day 7, from the foot of the Castillo the Camino continued north. All trace of the oak forests and the pigs vanished and it was rolling hills, wild oats and wheat. It was all gravel road today, slow going and physically demanding but most rewarding. I can call it the “nothingness” but that would be a lie. There is so much more to it.
It seems I am a lone pilgrim too, as I saw not a soul or even a boot print in the dust in these baking lands. In Zafra I stayed a night, ate some food (flamenquines and quails eggs with jamón) and walked around the old town.
#thornnomad #travel #cycling #cicloturismo #cicloturista #biketrip #biketouring #fahrradtour #cyclinglife #travelbybike #bikepacking #slowtravel #adventurecycling #bikewander #worldbycycling #worldbybike34 #bicycleworldstyle #pedal #biketravel #bicyclelife #solotraveler #goexplore #welivetoexplore #outsideisfree #optoutside #thegreatoutdoors #cyclingphotos #cycleplanet

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